85. Drag Performance is Under Attack--Breweries & Bars Can (Safely) Defend It
Unpacking Tennessee's drag ban going into effect this weekend as well as how this is playing out nationwide; plus tarot for a Belgian Dark Strong Ale.
This Saturday, April 1, Tennessee’s “drag ban bill” goes into effect. I’m using quotes because this is a catch-all being used in the media, and which I’ll use here because it’s brief and familiar enough, but frankly, it’s reductive. The law bans adult cabaret performance in any public space where a minor might see it, but extends to specify male or female impersonation, and many are understandably concerned this will enable the arrests of anyone in public who could be perceived as dressing outside their gender. In other words, not only is drag performance about to be very restricted, an egregious act on its own, but it also might be about to become even more dangerous than it already was to be transgender and/or queer in Tennessee. (Especially considering, of monumental importance, this bill was passed alongside a ban of gender-affirming healthcare for minors.) This is happening in true American fashion, too, in all of its bleak, dystopian, christofascist horror: yet another shooting in the state just Monday has left innocent people dead, including children. But the focus, especially when it comes to “protecting the children” remains on…drag performers. More guns, less LGBTQIA+ representation (none, if these people had their way): then the children will be safe.
I wanted to discuss this in the newsletter for a few reasons. For one thing, perhaps first and foremost, it fucking matters. It matters more than anything else I could talk about here. And we all know, we don’t “stick to beer” here. For another thing, which we’re about to unpack, there is a direct correlation here: Tennessee’s drag ban and similar ones in the works in other states, as well as pervasive bigotry across the entire country, are a threat to the brewery taprooms and beer bars that connect with their community and provide safe spaces by having drag events. As breweries holding drag story hours attract aggressive protests and threats of violence, and restaurants are told by their governments they’re grooming children by hosting drag brunches, we’ve got to come together, plan our fight back, and help each other stand strong, be safe, and continue supporting our communities. But before we dig into how this sickening turn in America is playing out in bars and breweries, let’s big-picture why this is so incredibly urgent and why we cannot become desensitized and stop caring.
“You'll see the immediate and direct impact that [this law] has on the mental health and just sort of day-to-day lives of queer people, trans people, gender nonconforming people, especially as it refers to the trans-affirming healthcare bills and the quote-unquote ‘drag ban bill’ which is really just a way to restrict the way that people dress,” says Nashville drag performer Vidalia Anne Gentry. “That’s a little terrifying…and leads me to the other side of this conversation where what all of these bills—not just the drag bran or the trans-affirming healthcare ban, but also the interfaith marriage and gay marriage-banning bills, the lynching bills, the drag permit bill, which thankfully failed in our House Senate—all of them together, the point is voter manipulation or electoral manipulation and fascism. They're looking to use this slate of hate. All of these bills which individually attack a different progressive ideology; they are using them to try to scare voters out of state that they have traditionally considered Republican strongholds. That's the point. It's not about drag. It's not about the children. It's not about queer people. It's not about trans people. It's not about interfaith people. The point is to bully and scare progressive voters for manipulation of the electoral body so that they can maintain fascist control and that's all it's about.”
The agenda of Republicans in office—shocker—doesn’t seem to reflect the collective vibes of the majority of Americans, outside of the very loud minority, consisting of the kind of people who will show up to protest a drag brunch. How much do these legislators really care about drag, and how much is this, as Vidalia points out, about voter manipulation and over-arching control?
“We believe that we’re being used as political pawns for the Right to virtue signal towards their base,” says Knoxville-based drag artist Harri Scari. “We know this because their legislation is not backed up by any data or evidence that any drag queen or trans person is actually causing harm to children; rather quite the opposite. Gender-affirming care and even drag shows to an extent have been proven to be life-saving, so why on earth would [people on the Right] be so adamant that we are causing harm? We believe it’s because issues like this inflame bigotry within the Right’s constituents and get them voting. This legislation is going to cost people—cost CHILDREN—their lives and it’s all so these sad amoral people can remain in power.”
You’ve got to care about the anti-drag and anti-trans legislation passing in this country in and of itself, but you’ve also got to care because of the domino effect of these kinds of bills. This is all, as owner of Brooklyn’s Someday Bar Megan Rickerson succinctly puts it, “a slippery slope.” It can be exhausting to fight day in and day out, yes. But the second we stop, not only do the fascists win on whatever particular issue is going on that day, but they’ll have the free rein to keep going. “If you stop caring, if you think it’s too scary or too much work or too dangerous—they hope you think it’s too much, and then they’ll go for the next thing,” Megan says. “How did we get here? People stopped caring. People think, ‘that doesn’t affect me,’ and have such a short-sighted view…maybe this thing doesn’t affect you, but the next thing could.”
Just within the frame of drag bans and restrictions, here’s what the slippery slope looks like—and this is also just so far. In Arizona, the current proposed bill is for any artists who perform in front of anyone under 15 years old to face at least 10 years in prison and have to register as sex offenders; people who even enter the location where these performances happen would also be punished. In Arkansas, the bill proposes to ban drag in public spaces where minors might be; ditto that for Idaho, Kentucky, Missouri, Montana, Oklahoma, South Carolina, and West Virginia. Four different bills are being worked out in Texas. Get scared, get angry, get motivated. “If you think legislation of this nature won't happen in your state, then you are living in a fool's paradise,” says Keleigh Klarke, entertainment director at Dru’s Bar in Memphis. “I promise, that even in blue states, there is legislation of this nature in some form being proposed. It may not pass, it may not even get a significant vote, but the idea is there and you don't know when it might get enough support to pass.”
To drill down a bit, past the layer that sits on top of all of this which is that freedoms in this country are in serious danger, what are we looking at when it comes to restricting or outright banning drag events and performances in public spaces, specifically—for the sake of this newsletter—breweries and bars?
Drag is so vital to the culture and nightlife and community of every city. As Vidalia points out, it’s not even really a question of separating drag out and wondering what nightlife looks like without drag. “It just is part of nightlife and it is part of the entertainment scene and there's not really a line at which one stops and says, ‘this is no longer drag.’ Like RuPaul says, ‘we're all born naked and the rest is drag.’ And it sounds cliche because it has been said so many times, but if you really break down what that means, her point is that every single choice we make about our appearance to the outside world is a choice we made to convey something about ourselves to the outside world. That's what drag is.” The only thing legislators are using to villainize specific entertainers here then is what Vidalia calls “the line of gender that they’re obsessed with being crossed because they are obsessed with the genitalia of queer people.”
So, trying to not only remove drag from events and entertainment but to somehow gender-police it all will, naturally, hit a venue’s bottom line. As one business owner tells writer Jaya Saxena in this Eater piece on the issue, “If you took the drag away, then it’s just another boring bar.” Drag is intrinsic to the identity of many bars, clubs, even taprooms. And even if it’s just a piece of the puzzle, removing that piece shuts down a world of opportunities to bring people into these spaces. Harri Scari says from what they see locally, businesses haven’t yet stopped holding drag shows. “They don’t want to. These shows bring in business.” That said, they add, there’s no doubt bans like this will hurt businesses once fully in effect, to the point that some will inevitably close.
“Many bars’ and nightclubs’ biggest nights are the nights in which they host shows,” says Klarke. “They will instead have to come up with other forms of entertainment to take the place of the loss of these shows. It also creates ban on the arts. At what point do we go beyond drag shows and start to restrict other types of performers? Can't have comedians because a minor might overhear and repeat a ‘dirty word.’ Can't have aerialists because a minor might see them and try to swing on a sheet tied to a tree branch and possibly hurt themselves. At what point do the bills of this nature stop?”
And this all, naturally, hits even more vulnerable wallets: those of the performers. Klarke says that while places like Dru’s Bar are safe under the bill mandates because it’s already a 21+ establishment, businesses like restaurants could start to fear backlash and enforcement once the ban goes into effect and stop any drag-related events. This, obviously, will make it significantly tougher for performers to find work.
Harri Scari points out that it could help to show these legislators the kind of money businesses lose by walling off drag, and have these legislators lose the support of local business owners—money talks and Republicans listen. But when it comes to what drives our fight against these laws in the first place, the priority remains safe spaces. Community. Representation. Visibility. We talk about this a lot here in regard to all manner of issues, but breweries, as community members and influencers, do have a responsibility to welcome all equally and happily, and set a local tone. Where other community centers like churches may fail, venues like breweries, clubs, bars, and restaurants have the impactful power to provide safe spaces for all. And these safe spaces are vital.
“Many LGBTQ+ safe spaces are already suffering due to the progress we have made as a nation in equality,” Klarke says. “For some [these spaces] are seen as outdated and unnecessary. But they are a necessity because we as a community need these safe spaces to congregate in. Just like people need community centers and churches. Schools even. The loss of drag shows for many places will be their death knell and the government will have played the role of the executioner.”
Rickerson hosts regular drag events at Someday Bar—on our phone chat, she tells me performers will say to her, “You own a gay bar!” “I say, ‘Well, I’m a straight white woman so that doesn’t feel appropriate for me to say, but if you want to say it, that’s okay!” She laughs. “Bars are a community space. They’re an extension of your living room, a place you’re supposed to feel comfortable. This biggest compliment someone can give me is, ‘I feel so safe here. I feel at home.’ If you’re not doing that [as a business owner], you’re not doing it right. You missed the mark. Obviously when serving alcohol, you keep people safe. But it’s also a community space and that doesn’t mean a specific community, that means everyone.”
Hi-Wire Brewing is known for—in addition to its beer, of course—its drag events. I was especially curious to hear from them because they’ve got taprooms both in Tennessee as well as other southern states where looming legislation and/or threats from that outspoken, homophobic and transphobic minority lurk. According to comments from owners Adam Charnack and Chris Frosaker that Hi-Wire’s marketing and PR specialist Shanda Williams passed along, the brewery is actively invested in making sure they can keep this commitment to community and safe spaces going.
“Our Higher Purpose as a company is ‘bringing people together one beer at a time,’ and we can't truthfully say we're living up to that purpose if we don't create a safe space where everyone is welcome. When it comes to inclusivity, we intentionally collaborate and seek knowledge from those in the community, from customers to employees to community groups, when putting on these events. We want ALL people to feel free to ‘come as they are’ to Hi-Wire.”
There’s heartening news that backs up endeavors like Hi-Wire’s, which is that many businesses are devoted to staying the course and continuing to celebrate drag and create safe community for all. Even some of those who would theoretically be enforcing the ban in Tennessee have stood up against it, says Klarke. “I cannot speak for Tennessee as a whole or even the entirety of Shelby County. What I can speak for is the city of Memphis. We are blessed in that Shelby County is one of only two blue counties in Tennessee. The DA's office, our police liaisons, and law enforcement officials have stepped up and stated that they WILL NOT arrest any drag performers in this city, including at our public Pride event in June. As they have stated they have more important things to worry about, like people being murdered in the streets.”
It is so necessary and important that our businesses continue to support the queer community—and in that, truly the entire community. But, that can’t happen if it’s not done safely. As Dave Infante noted along with his coverage of this cultural climate within craft breweries, breweries need to have a plan to keep both staff and patrons safe, like, yesterday. Personally, my wish is this: I want breweries to keep proudly hosting drag events. But they cannot do so without a formulated plan to make sure their safe spaces are indeed safe for everyone in every way.
The Brewmaster’s Taproom in Renton, Washington was shot at over its regular drag story hours. In Bloomington, Indiana, Switchyard Brewing Company was able to carry on with a drag brunch in the face of threats of violence, thanks largely in part to support from the community who showed up to help the event go off smoothly. On Rotation Brewery Brewery had to cancel its drag event under such threats. The Proud Boys showed up to protest Hugger Mugger Brewing’s drag event in North Carolina…honestly the list of instances goes on, and is sobering stuff.
As discussed in that last article I linked, performers are obviously and understandably concerned about their safety. “We are incredibly worried walking to and from our gigs, even those at 18+ venues,” says Harri Scari. “Not necessarily because we are afraid of being arrested, but more because legislation like this emboldens radical people to act radically.” And when you have these kinds of threats and protesters, especially those known to be violent, everyone is at risk. The people who attend (including any kids they might bring…which really—literally sometimes—shoots holes into the whole “protecting the children” thing…), and the people who work at the venue.
Some of the owners of the so far affected breweries I mentioned above spoke to Dave Infante about how they plan for safety at their drag events in the article I also linked to above—here it is again. I spoke to Megan about overall safety approaches at Someday Bar, too—on our call, there was a sort of volleying acknowledgment that we are lucky to live in a place like New York. As Klarke had stressed, no one in any city should get comfortable: anything seems like it could happen right now in this political atmosphere, and besides, there are hateful bigots everywhere, even here in NYC. But the threat of bans and large-scale, organized action against drag and the queer community doesn’t loom quite as large here, something Megan thinks about a lot especially having connections to other states—she’s from Florida and her parents now live in the Midwest, providing a sampling of the current mood out there in America. It’s a privilege to be able to carry on as a queer community-embracing bar with regular drag events here, especially because, as Megan notes, to have to start modifying your behavior and not promoting drag shows feels like “they win.” So, while she has not had to form a specific plan for safety regarding threats at drag shows, I still knew Megan would have some overall takeaways because of how she navigated raised tensions as a brand new bar in the wake of Covid.
“It’s about relying on your community. Rely on your people—people want to help. Investing in relationships with people who want to look out for you is huge.”
When I spoke to drag performers in Tennessee as well as Hi-Wire Brewing, it was still a bit too early for anyone to know exactly how this will all shake out. How many breweries, bars, restaurants, and clubs will feel too much pressure from the ban or too many threats from the small but forceful groups of bigots and stop events…how many performers won’t be able to find work…how many businesses will close…and of course, the flip-side, which is, how many businesses will strategize on safety and continue to support their communities and be safe spaces. With that, too, though, comes the fact that it’s also a bit early in the game to know what some of those strategies will look like. It’s something I’ll be following. In the meantime, Hi-Wire has jumped into action.
“Our genuine hope is that the bill is quickly overturned, but in the meantime, we've discussed our options with legal counsel, consulted with the drag performers that perform in our Knoxville taproom on a regular basis, and have started to provide access to educational materials and donation information to relevant non-profits at our taproom. We're also donating 50% of ticket sales from our Nerdlesque Drag Show happening on March 25th to the Tennessee Equality Project. There are still a lot of unknowns at this point, but we are doing our best to find an effective way to support the community at this time.”
Something I think is interesting to include, too, is how the brewery has mapped out its compliance with the legislation. These are the points of the law and how Hi-Wire is abiding by them:
“1. That the event is held on public property or can be viewed by anyone under the age of 18.
- Our drag events in Knoxville have been held indoors on private property. These events have been and will continue to be 18+ only.
2. ‘Adult cabaret entertainment’ was performed and would be considered harmful to minors.
– Drag performances would be considered adult cabaret entertainment according to the bill's definition of the term. However, we do not believe the content is harmful to minors. Regardless, our events are 18+ to avoid any confusion on the matter.
3. That the event occurred in an ‘adult-oriented establishment,’ meaning the establishment's principal or predominant stock or trade is sexually-oriented material.
– We are a brewery taproom first and foremost.
As of right now, we feel confident we can continue to host drag events in our taproom in accordance with the bill, and we will continue to have these events as long as there is public interest in them and our performers, customers, and staff feel safe.”
Maybe I’m grasping for hope straws here, but this kind of commitment from breweries like Hi-Wire feels encouraging. Note that it does come with a lot of planning for safety! If you own / operate a venue, follow Megan’s advice and look to your community—look to groups who can provide support in numbers for safety, look to lawyers who will be happy to advise you pro bono. And as for the rest of us, let’s keep showing the fuck up. Let’s be part of that community that displays strength in numbers. Let’s scream from the top of our lungs that we are not going to stand for this attack on drag, this attack on trans rights and healthcare, this attack on safe spaces.
A positive note to end on here is that Vidalia says there’s actually been a swell of support for drag entertainers amid this controversy. It’s “provided a lot of positive press for drag entertainers. There has been an uptick in performance opportunities and uptick in attendance at drag events. Will that continue? I would love to see those numbers continue to trend up, but maybe more just because they love drag rather than because we're having to defend it from fascists.”
“The Right doesn’t want us to feel safe,” Harri Scari says. “They want us to be afraid, but what they don’t realize is that they’re messing with people who have been organizing their entire lives, and will eventually make up 15% of the voting block that actually shows up on the non-presidential years (that’s according to research done by the HRC). We’re coming for their seats, were coming for their jobs, and America in 10 years is going to look considerably more like a drag queen than a 75-year-old out-of-touch conservative.”
Beer Tarot!
This week, I pulled Strength.
In addition to, well, strength, this card also embodies compassion, courage, and influence. There are other cards in the tarot deck that speak to a similar kind of resilience and bravery, but Strength is perhaps the most directly tied to inner strength. It speaks to the core of you, where you have the ability to be a quiet force of nature. It might even work in your favor: people don’t even see how much strength you have; you may be underestimated. It’s not that people don’t respect you, admire you, have confidence in you, etc. But perhaps they just don’t even know the half of it. This is a good thing, because you can do incredible things on your timeline, with less outside pressure and expectations. You have this inner strength to always believe in yourself and always stay the course, and that promises big things ahead for you. And if you’re not sure if you have this level of strength yet, this card wants to remind you to start building it.
As we see from the woman on the card petting the tamed lion, Strength has a lot to do with overcoming other things battling for our attention—self-doubt, anxiety, insecurity, other people’s bullshit we take on. This card would like to remind you that you’ve got this, whatever that looks like. Maybe that means taking a front-and-center position at work or in a project, maybe it actually means sitting something out because you know it’s just not for you and doesn’t make sense for your path. Whatever your decision, have the strength to trust your instincts. A phrase I’ve been coming back to a lot lately is, “No is a full sentence.” Having strength and self-confidence and resolve doesn’t always equate to doing things; sometimes it means not doing things, too. Know yourself, and trust that you know yourself.
Let’s go with a strong ale for your strong inner self. pFriem has a Belgian Strong Dark that—I don’t know, maybe it’s even just the product imagery—just seems so resolute. This beer says, “I know who I am, I like it, and I’m not going to change (except for, ya know, any changes that come with aging).” And I think any beer we can take a little inspiration from is a good beer.
This Week’s Boozy Media Rec
Keeping this short and sweet since this week’s issue is a doozy but! Go listen to the March 17 episode (number 666, badass) of Jimmy Carbone’s podcast Beer Sessions Radio, “Thoughtful Beer Writers.” Jeff Cioletti and Kate Bernot provide a brilliant and fascinating conversation, one that spans drink-fueled travel, craft malt, industry trends, and much more.
Ex-BEER-ience of the Week
Bringing friends visiting from out of town to some of your favorite spots is a joy on its own. Watching said friends truly appreciate new-to-them craft beer is another kind of joy. I got to introduce a friend to altbier at BierWax this weekend, which obviously rocked. But I also got to try a new-to-me substyle, which is this smoked sour from TALEA. Spicy Marg is brewed with pineapple, lime, sea salt, and habanero, and tastes like a bright, spicy mezcal cocktail.
Until next week, here’s a throwback shot of Darb and her friend Pearl in their preferred spot at the dog park: on top of the picnic table.
