Fuck ICE, Drink What You Want, Don't Be Weird
That first part is really all that matters but let's also discuss the first mainstream Dry January push-back in a while (ever?) and some nice drinks-related things.
Hi, yes, so, fuck ICE. It feels insane to write about anything but current events right now, but here we are all just trying to exist…I do want to shout out all the breweries, distilleries, bars, etc., who are taking a stand, advocating for those suffering under the violent tyranny of ICE, and expressing their views. It may seem obvious, but it’s actually really admirable when you weigh the dicey economic climate for businesses right now against the legions of “stick to beer” trolls frothing at the mouth to rally each other and boycott you (not like they leave their basements, anyway). I’d started saving these posts but then they were really coming from so many businesses it seemed like a moot point—and that’s a cool thing.
Things truly got real last Friday, too, for the ICE OUT strike. Talk about dicey territory for businesses to navigate. As many pointed out on social media, this is a really, really brutal time to close up shop, especially on a Friday. And lest anyone call this a cop-out, consider these businesses’ employees. And the fact that these employees live primarily off of tips. And, again, Friday. I know—or I hope—that most bars and restaurants desperately wanted to strike but had to make the realistic call so as not to totally screw their staff. So, I very much appreciate and salute those who stayed open, switched to cash only, and donated proceeds to immigrant aid and anti-ICE organizations. Again, there are actually too many to shout out, which is rare nice news.
We’ve fucking got this.
Well, back to your irregularly scheduled programming…
Congratulations, you made it through Dry January. And I don’t necessarily mean you survived not drinking for a month, if you chose to partake in this endeavor, but more that you survived another round of relentless Dry January chatter. I wholeheartedly support whatever ways people choose in order to dial in their own approach to moderation but tbh I’m experiencing real Dry January fatigue—it, like every other event or holiday or heartbeat in America, seems to now exist almost entirely as a marketing opportunity.
I loved Jerard Fagerberg’s recent-ish story for VinePair, “Welcome to Alcohol’s Slop Era,” and I think that’s already creeping into N/A. It’s easier to launch a N/A RTD brand than an alcoholic one in terms of red tape, and I’d argue there are plenty of cash sign-eyed entrepreneur wannabes shooting their shot with any manner of Chat GPT-generated flavor combos so they can get a piece of that “people are trying to be healthier” pie. The sheer onslaught of dry January press releases in my inbox this year is evidence: There are more than ever, and they’ve never been for more half-hearted products or bar menus. “Doing dry January? Have you heard of soda???????” Honestly I feel for publicists trying to spin this nothingness into somethingness.
Hand in hand with this, I have been in “eyebrow raised, popping popcorn” mode this year watching something that hasn’t happened since dry January and the related narrative that “no one wants this drink anymore!!” became so inescapable: people are pushing back. Instead of the annual tradition that’s become compulsory in recent years of publications running stories on why Dry January is The Way, they’re allowing some opposing viewpoints to break though.
This GQ piece by Dean Stattmann delves into Stattmann’s own experience on the wagon and why he hopped off—backed up with actual reporting and insights from anthropology and psychology experts. It makes clear what I always also want to emphasize, which is that drinking obviously is not healthy and decisions around it are highly personal. Everyone has to do what is best for them—which, by the way, is why I think Dry January is so fucking weird…evaluating your relationship with alcohol doesn’t feel like it should be social media fodder? And why do we all have to do it at the same time? While despite what our bro-capitalist overlords would you have believe it’s not our jobs to keep businesses afloat at the cost of our health, it IS just a real middle finger to a lot of small, independent operators that half the population decides to hibernate all during the same month, and it also feels more so much more performative than people making their own informed choices.
But, ANYWAY—while also noting that this speaks to those who don’t have a struggle with addiction—this GQ piece broaches a topic that other pieces like this Inside Hook one from this year does, too: the social loss of going fully off the sauce. Again, I feel like we can’t be too careful about reiterating this can ONLY really be a conversation if you are fortunate to not be afflicted with addiction or any unhealthy habits. The point, though, for those who simply get caught up in the puritanical American MAHA wellness tornado, is that there’s a reason alcohol has been a key facet of civilization since the dawn of humanity. We biologically benefit from social lubrication. No, third spaces should not exist entirely around alcohol and it’s a deeper, wider-spreading systemic problem in our contemporary society that things got to the point where they mainly do. But to deprive ourselves of those remaining spaces when it might not be necessary, instead of reevaluating our relationships with them, is just bolstering this harmful, depressing and pervasive culture of loneliness and isolation.
Think pieces have been springing forth from media outlets in all different corners of the internet, of course only further spurred on by this year’s latest edition of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s dietary guidelines, which did get rid of the drinks-per-day recommendations but buckled down on “less booze, better health” decree. My feeling is that all of this has just gotten so fraught. There’s always been a push and pull, tightrope-walking dynamic to alcohol in that it is a part of the entire history of humanity and it does foster release and socialization but that it is also unhealthy and something to which unhealthy attachments can be formed. But toss in America’s puritanical DNA and our current christo-fascist government, plus a few dashes of toxic Tik Tok health and wellness influencing, and you’ve got a real fucked up stew. Dry January just feels like yet another version of slop or enshittification resulting from said stew, erasing any true intentionality when it comes to examining our collective relationship with alcohol. Frankly, I feel like the fact that we’re seeing more question-asking and differing viewpoints break through this year is at least an auspicious sign.
Obsessions from the Past Month
While in D.C., I got to check out the very cool, very excellent drinks program Lukas B. Smith is running at No Goodbyes. Smith crafts truly novel, interesting riffs on classic cocktails, many of which utilize his own spirits that are themselves complex upgrades on back-bar staples. One of my favorites was a peated fernet: Smith replaces part of the fernet recipe with Talisker 10 Whisky from the Isle of Skye.
This is the item that made me change this section from “best drinks” to overall obsessions. Folks here in New York are going gaga over Stars, and the bar is deserving of the buzz from the atmosphere to the service to the menu. But the memory I simply cannot quit is that of the free snack: Marcona almonds with lavender and salt. The server—who also helped me set up a better photo for my drink and was altogether lovely—brought us another round when she noticed I was out of control for them. Simple, but perfect.
More in D.C.—everything, frankly, was pretty fantastic at Maison Bar à Vins. But I am still dreaming of the seaweed crackled choux buns stuffed with tarama and topped with trout roe. Giving into the urge to order a second round of those and enjoying a splash of vintage chartreuse? A night to remember.
Is it cheating if I just say “everything” at MITA in D.C.? My friend and I had the pleasure of being guided through the bar program by beverage director Lou Bernard and trying spirits from all over Latin America, which all beautifully complemented the Latin American vegetarian menu. There was a passion fruit spread situation for these mini arepas and…man, I just want a vat of it.
Kölsch service at Eckhart Beer Co.—love this space, love the team, love the beer, and on the second Saturday of every month you can live your best Cologne life and have the freshest-to-deathest lil crispy guys delivered until you cry “uncle”? Sublime. And there’s altbier, too!
The Zaffri’s Tini at Raf’s. My initial instinct is to say, “more saffron martinis, please,” but then, this one wouldn’t be so special, would it?
Izzy’s Cicchetti Hour at Bar Bianchi. The very chic East Village aperitivo bar is launching a daily “cicchetti hour” Monday to Thursday 5pm to 6:30pm, Friday 4pm to 6:30pm, and Sunday 4pm to 6:30pm, with special Italian snacks and spritzy drinks, and on Tuesdays, the legendary Izzy Tulloch will be working her magic behind the stick. I got a preview of the event and it’s such a lovely time—the cocktails are delicious, refreshing, unique, and have low- and no-ABV options.
What I’ve Been Up To
I started noticing a real moment trending for cocktails including some element of fish—from smoked salmon washes to anchovy vermouth. It’s something that might immediately turn a bar guest off, but there are actually all kinds of interesting, lovely flavors bartenders are getting from fish that aren’t “fishy,” and this is opening up new territory under the savory cocktail umbrella. I wrote all about it for Wine Enthusiast.
Every media outlet loves to proclaim this and that as the Next Big Thing in Cocktails for This Year!!!—but what are bartenders actually seeing on the rise? What are they excited about? What are they experimenting with, what are people asking for, and why these ingredients now? To find out, I heard from 30 different bartenders across the country to report on the next flavors that will dominate the cocktail scene, for VinePair.
Brieux Carré is one of my very favorite breweries—nay, places—on earth, and I am overall endlessly inspired by the tenacity, grit, dedication, talent, and craft of breweries in New Orleans. I think it’s one of the best beer scenes on earth. Very grateful to the awesome Pellicle Magazine for letting me talk all about it here.
I was lucky enough to explore Grand Junction, Colorado this past August, which I talked about in October’s newsletter issue. It’s a very special place, and I broke down what makes the beer scene so unique and visit-worthy for Craft Beer.
Food & Wine allowed me to dive into what is the best beer style of all time—not taking questions at this time, thanks—altbier. I heard from the awesome TailGate Brewery and The Seed for this; special shout-out to Eckhart for being rad and making rad altbier, and making sure I got to enjoy it at its best during kölsch service.
This was a fun one: Motivated by taproom staff dishing online about customers’ more frustrating or baffling questions at the bar, I spoke to a whole bunch of great brewery team members on how they handle those questions well and turn them into educational moments even when the taproom is busy. Head to Brewing Industry Guide to read this one and hear about the infamous “not hot-doggy-enough” beer at Highland Park Brewery.
Bright colors are trending again in cocktails and spirits, but how can distillers create visually rich, attention-grabbing spirits without artificial additives? I spoke to a few who achieve stunning hues via natural ingredients that organically tie into the spirits’ flavor profiles for Craft Spirits & Distilling.
Customization is trending on cocktail bar menus and I’m of two minds about it, feeling a certain kind of way about allowing guests to go bonkers personalizing their alcoholic menu choices and another kind of way when it comes to alcoholic-to-non customization in particular. Slate let me get into it, with lots of bartenders working in both spaces.
Y’all, I am having so much fun consulting. It’s one of those gigs I’d do for free—except not because capitalism, rent, food, etc.! But I really do love working with PR firms to give them a better idea of how writers work so they can lend coverage for their clients more efficiently and we can all collaborate more effectively. And, I’ve started helping a couple breweries and bars with their media strategies, because hi, small business owners do not have the time or budget to take on another full-time job learning and doing PR. It is very collaborative and rewarding and it makes me so happy to hear bar owners, for example, feel newly confident in a PR strategy they can handle. If you’d like to learn about how I can help you, visit here and/or get in touch at courtneyiseman@gmail.com!
Really sharp take on how Dry January has turned into performative marketing noise rather than genuine self-reflection. The point about social lubrication being a biological benefit is something people miss when they go full abstinance without actual need. I've felt the same way watching the slop era unfold where every brand treats moderation like a branding opportu nity.